Making a Maxidress with a Pleated Bodice 

Welcome to a new post on my blog. I own a new sewing machine and it is so good. I should have invested in a better one since quite some time… Loking back I’m somehow glad, my old machine did not survive. Anyways, that is not the topic! The first ,bigger thing’ I made on my new machine is a maxidress with a pleated bodice. The bodice is copied from one of my favourite dresses in my wardrobe that is sadly starting to fall apart. After years… So, shall we be making a maxidress together?

The fabrics I used for this dress are all from Buttinette. I used:

The Holy Dress

This is it… I will bury it playing Mozart’s ,Requiem’ should it really fall apart. I adore this dress. There is a second one, also by Orsay, that I will copy too in the future. It has a really gorgously cut pencil skirt. At the moment, fashion seems so boring to me ^^’. I like clever cuts and colours.

Drafting the Pattern

I started by drafting the pattern with the help of the original dress.

That is what I ended up with. This is the pattern for the lining. The lining was made from a lightweight cotton fabric. The backpanels and straps where the same for the chiffon layer but I cut the waistband on the fold to allow me pleating it and I draped the frontpart in two pieces. I made slight changes for the waistband since I did not want it as loose as it is on the original dress.

Let’s start with the Lining

I cut out all pieces of the lining, sewed them together and tried the bodice on. I only hat to change one seam a bit. After that I first finishet the waistband. I made the pleats and then sewed toplayer and lining onto each other. Looking back, that was a bad idea. I will change this next time because it left me with raw edges where I joined waistband and bodice and waistband and skirt.

Draping the Bodice

Then I started draping the pleated parts and cut out the backpieces and the straps from chiffon.

After that, I sewed the jauvanaise parts together and sewed the lining in (after ironing the seams open). Then the bodice was complete, apart from the fact, that I had to bind the raw edges which was not all that funny…

Here you can see the front and back of the bodice.

Finishing with the Skirt

The skirt was the easiest part. I decided to do a gathered skirt with a 3 meter wide hem. I had to line it, as the chiffon is seethrough. For the lining I went with a width of 2 meters and a lengh of 0.8 meters. I love full skirts!

I gathered the two layers and handsewed them together. Then I attached the skirt to the waistband by machine. I trimmed the seam a bit and then again covered the raw edges with bias binding. I hemmed the dress and did the back seam (using a french seam because I did use enough bias binding for my taste…). After that, the dress was finished apart from my alltime favourite task: add the zipper. It looks better than expected but is far from perfect. I really am not able to sew a zipper in nicely… But the dress fits perfectly and I adore the full and floor long skirt. I can ignore the sloppy upper part of the back :P.

Some Pictures

Here are some pictures. Excuse the light, it’s pouring outside. But I wont complain, I really am no summer girl. I prefer cooler temperatures. It is so refreshing. I hope the next week will be nice and rainy.

Thanks a lot for reading, I hope you enjoyed the post 🙂 A little comparison:

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